Short answer: For scale glazing, use 1/16 in. clear acrylic; it's thin enough to look right in HO and O scale buildings. For diorama and display bases, 1/4 in. black or clear acrylic is stiff and looks finished. Laser-cut parts hold about ±0.005 in., so window openings and frames fit the first time.
What modelers use acrylic for
- Window glazing for scale buildings, stations, and vehicles.
- Window and door frames cut in white or black, layered over clear.
- Diorama and figure bases with an engraved title.
- Layout parts: fascia panels, control panel faces, clear barriers along the edge of a train layout, and covers for track diagrams.
- Water effects: clear sheet over a painted base, with resin or texture for rivers and ponds.
- Display covers for finished dioramas. See custom display cases.
What thickness to choose
| Part | Thickness |
|---|---|
| Glazing in N and HO scale | 1/16 in. |
| Glazing in O and G scale, larger buildings | 1/16 or 1/8 in. |
| Window frames, mullions, layered details | 1/16 or 1/8 in. white or black |
| Figure and diorama bases | 1/4 or 3/8 in. |
| Layout fascia and edge barriers | 1/8 or 3/16 in. |
At 1/16 in., glazing is still a scale 5 in. thick in HO, so for very fine work some modelers set it behind the wall rather than in the opening. Either way it looks far better than thick plastic.
How fine can the detail be?
Our lasers hold about ±0.005 in., with a kerf (the width of material the beam removes) around 0.006 to 0.010 in. That's fine enough for window muntins down to roughly 0.03 in. wide in 1/16 in. sheet. Thinner bars can warp from heat. Our guide to the smallest detail you can laser cut in acrylic has the numbers.
Engraving can add frosted panes, brick or panel lines, and signage. Light engraving on the back of clear glazing looks like frosted or grimy glass, which is great for older buildings.
Preparing your file
Draw parts at full size in a vector format (SVG, DXF, AI, or PDF). Put cut lines on one color and engraving on another. Group small parts close together to save material, but leave about 1/16 in. between them. Our guide on how to prepare a file for laser cutting walks through it, and the free laser file checker flags open paths before you upload.
Assembly
For acrylic to acrylic, a thin solvent cement applied with a needle bottle wicks into the joint and leaves no residue. For glazing into wood, styrene, or card, use a clear canopy glue or a tiny bead of clear silicone. Never use super glue near clear parts: its vapor fogs acrylic white. More in how to glue acrylic.
Tip: leave the protective film on glazing until the building is fully assembled and painted. It keeps paint, glue, and fingerprints off the clear surface.
Bases that look finished
A display base for a figure or diorama should be about 1 in. bigger than the scene on each side. Black 1/4 in. acrylic with a laser-cut edge has a glossy, finished look; clear 3/8 in. with a polished edge makes a scene appear to float. An engraved title along the front edge, 0.25 to 0.4 in. tall, reads well on a shelf. If a cover will sit over the base, ask for a shallow groove or a raised lip so it stays put.
Questions
Can you cut a whole sheet of tiny parts?
Yes. Upload one drawing with all the parts nested, and we cut them as one sheet. Price depends on the sheet area and total cut length.
Do you have tinted glazing?
Gray and bronze tint come in 1/8 in. and up, which works for modern buildings, vehicles, and larger scales. For HO, most modelers use 1/16 in. clear.
Have a drawing? Upload it for a price.