Short answer: For most display cases up to about 24 in. on a side, 1/8 in. clear acrylic is enough; go to 3/16 or 1/4 in. for larger cases or ones that get handled a lot. We cut the panels to size and can bond the whole case for you, with an optional UV-filtering top and a black or wood-look base.
How big should the case be?
Measure the widest, deepest, and tallest points of the piece, including anything that sticks out like antennas, wings, or minifigure accessories. Then add clearance: about 1 in. on each side and 1 to 2 in. above is a good starting point. That gap keeps the walls from touching the model when you lift the cover off and leaves room for a small label or stand.
Common sizes we see:
- Small figures and die-cast cars: 4 to 8 in. cubes.
- Mid-size building block sets and ship models: 12 to 24 in. long, 8 to 14 in. deep.
- Large display sets, trains, and aircraft: 30 to 48 in. long. These usually need thicker walls.
What thickness to choose
| Longest side of the case | Suggested wall thickness |
|---|---|
| Up to 12 in. | 1/8 in. |
| 12 to 24 in. | 1/8 or 3/16 in. |
| 24 to 36 in. | 3/16 or 1/4 in. |
| Over 36 in. | 1/4 in. |
Thicker walls look more substantial and resist bowing, but they add weight: a 1/4 in. case is twice as heavy as a 1/8 in. one. For a cover you lift off often, lighter is easier. Cast acrylic bonds cleaner than extruded, so we use clear cast for bonded cases.
UV filtering, glare, and color
Sunlight and fluorescent light fade printed boxes, signed items, and some plastics over the years. Standard clear acrylic already blocks part of the UV spectrum, and UV-filtering acrylic blocks much more. It comes in 1/8 and 1/4 in., so it works for most case walls. If the case sits near a window, it's worth it.
Non-glare clear (1/8 in.) cuts reflections when the case sits under bright lights. It has a slight satin look, so it suits flat-front cases better than five-sided covers.
For a base, black or white acrylic in 1/4 or 3/8 in. looks clean. Mirror silver (1/8 or 1/4 in.) under a model shows off the underside of cars and aircraft.
How we make it
You can order just the panels and assemble the case yourself, or have us build it. For a finished case, we cut each panel, finish the edges, and solvent-bond the joints so they're nearly invisible from the front. See our acrylic fabrication service for bonded cases and boxes.
If you want to build it yourself, order panels with flame-polished or machined edges and follow our guide on how to build an acrylic box. Square, clean edges are what make the joints strong.
Base options
- Lift-off cover on a flat base: the most common. The base has a shallow lip or a routed groove so the cover sits in place.
- Hinged front door: good for wall-mounted cases and anything you rearrange.
- Raised plinth: a second layer under the model with an engraved title. Engraving works on the base or the front panel.
Tip: put small felt or rubber feet under the base, and leave a tiny gap at the bottom of a lift-off cover. A fully sealed case can trap humidity and heat.
Questions
Will an acrylic case keep dust out?
A five-sided cover sitting in a groove keeps out nearly all dust. It isn't airtight, which is a good thing for most collectibles.
Why does dust stick to the outside of the case?
Acrylic builds up static when you wipe it dry. Clean with a damp microfiber cloth or an anti-static acrylic cleaner, never a Windex-type window spray.
Can you build a case longer than 48 in.?
Often, yes. Full sheets are 48 × 96 in., so long cases are possible; we confirm larger builds by hand before you order.
Know your sizes? Price the panels instantly, or describe the case you want and we'll suggest a build.