Short answer: For a table or panel saw, use a carbide-tipped blade with a triple-chip grind, a low positive rake (hook) of 0 to 10°, and 60 to 80 teeth on a 10 in. blade, kept for acrylic only. Trinseo's Plexiglas manual specifies 80 teeth at 0° rake for sheet up to 0.080 in., 80 teeth at 5 to 10° for 0.100 to 0.177 in., and 60 teeth at 5 to 10° for 1/4 in. and thicker. Set the blade just above the sheet and feed steadily at about 3 to 4 in. per second.
Key facts
- Tooth form: triple-chip grind (TCG), also called square and advance: alternate chamfered and flat teeth.
- Material: carbide-tipped, dedicated to acrylic; don't cut wood or metal with it.
- Rake (hook): 0 to 10° positive per Plexiglas; 0 to 5° per ACRYLITE. Aggressive positive-hook wood blades grab and chip.
- Teeth: 80 on a 10 in. blade for thin sheet; 60 for 1/4 in. and thicker.
- Speed and feed: about 3,450 rpm on a 10 in. table saw; feed about 3 to 4 in. per second, evenly.
- Band saw: metal-cutting blades; 18 TPI to 1/8 in., 10 to 14 TPI to 0.472 in., 6 TPI skip-tooth above that.
Table and panel saw blades
Trinseo's Plexiglas fabrication manual gives a full carbide blade table. The core of it for hand-fed table saws:
| Sheet thickness | Blade diameter | Teeth | Rake angle |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.030 to 0.080 in. | 8, 10, or 12 in. | 80 | 0° |
| 0.100 to 0.177 in. | 8 to 14 in. | 80 | 5 to 10° |
| 0.236 to 0.944 in. | 8 to 14 in. | 60 | 5 to 10° |
| 1.5 to 2 in. | 12 to 16 in. | 60 | 5 to 10° |
ACRYLITE's sawing guide is close: on a 10 in. saw, 60 or 80 teeth (80 for 1/16 to 1/8 in. sheet), triple-chip, 0 to 5° positive rake, and 10 to 15° top clearance, run at a surface speed of 6,000 to 14,000 ft/min. Plaskolite's guide adds that teeth should be uniform in height and shape with a slight set, and that hollow-ground or expansion-slotted blades run cooler.
Blades sold for plastics and non-ferrous metals usually fit this description: 80-tooth, triple-chip, slightly negative to slightly positive hook. Freud, Diablo, Amana, Forrest, and CMT all make them. The Plexiglas manual specifically mentions Forrest's "no melt" style, which has extra clearance behind the teeth and allows faster feeds. A general-purpose 40-tooth wood blade will cut acrylic, but it chips the edge and can grab thin sheet.
How to set up the saw
- Blade height: Plexiglas says just slightly more than the sheet thickness for a chip-free edge; ACRYLITE gives about 1/8 in. above thin sheet and 1/4 to 1/2 in. above thicker sheet.
- Feed: steady, about 3 to 4 in. per second (15 to 20 ft/min) by hand. Stopping mid-cut melts the edge.
- Runout: ACRYLITE wants arbor and blade runout under 0.002 in. A wobbling blade heats and melts the cut.
- Fence: parallel to the blade, or opened 1/64 to 1/32 in. at the back.
- Masking: leave it on. It protects the surface and helps lubricate the cut.
- Cooling: usually unnecessary. For very smooth cuts in thick sheet, a fine mist of water with a little detergent, or compressed air, helps.
Band saw blades for acrylic
The Plexiglas manual recommends metal-cutting blades (bimetal blades stay sharp longer) at 2,300 to 7,500 ft/min, with fewer teeth as the sheet gets thicker:
| Thickness | Blade width | Tooth style | Teeth per inch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Up to 0.118 in. (1/8 in.) | 3/8 in. | Regular, raker set | 18 |
| 0.118 to 0.472 in. | 1/2 in. | Regular, raker set | 10 to 14 |
| 0.472 to 2.00 in. | 3/4 in. | Skip or buttress | 6 |
Use 1/4 to 3/8 in. wide blades for curves, and 1/2 to 3/4 in. for straight cuts. Band-sawn edges are rough and need finishing.
Circular saws, jigsaws, and hand saws
- Handheld circular saw: the same rules: fine-tooth carbide, triple-chip or plastic-cutting blade, sheet clamped on a flat support so it can't vibrate.
- Jigsaw: a fine-tooth metal or plastic blade, low orbital action (none), moderate speed, and the sheet supported close to the cut. Too slow and the kerf welds shut behind the blade.
- Hand saw: a fine-tooth backsaw or hacksaw works for small pieces.
- Score and snap: for straight cuts in sheet 1/4 in. (6 mm) and thinner, a scoring knife is quicker than any saw.
More on all of these in how to cut acrylic at home.
What causes chipping, melting, and rough edges?
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Chipped edges | Too much hook, too few teeth, dull or uneven teeth, sheet vibrating | Triple-chip blade with low rake; clamp the sheet; lower the blade |
| Melted, gummy edges | Feeding too slowly, dull blade, wobble, too many teeth for the thickness | Feed faster and evenly; sharpen; check runout; fewer teeth on thick sheet |
| Blade grabs the sheet | Positive-hook wood blade | Switch to 0 to 5° hook |
| Cracks starting at the edge | Chips acting as notches | Scrape or sand the edge smooth |
Even a perfect saw cut leaves a matte edge. To make it clear, scrape, sand, and polish it; see how to polish acrylic edges. Or skip the saw: our lasers leave a glossy edge on parts up to 1/2 in., and we route thicker sheet. See prices in the instant quote.
Questions
Can I use a regular wood blade on acrylic?
For a rough cut, yes. Expect chipping and possibly grabbing, especially on thin sheet. For clean edges use a triple-chip blade with low or negative hook.
Is a negative-hook blade OK for acrylic?
A slight negative hook (around -3° to -5°, common on plastic and non-ferrous blades) works well and is safer on sliding saws. The makers' 0 to 10° figures assume a hand-fed table saw.
Can I glue a saw-cut edge straight off the saw?
A clean, square cut from a sharp triple-chip blade can be cemented without sanding. Don't polish a glue edge; a flat, square, slightly matte edge bonds best. See how to glue acrylic.